San Martin, Hospital de Orbigo & Astorga

¡Hola Everybody!

Presently we are all safe and sound in our hostel at Astorga in close proximity to their lovely cathedral (which we couldn´t get into) and Gaudi´s Episcopal Palace (which we also couldn´t get into) (darn Sundays).

Two days ago we began our journey to Compostela bright and early at 7:00, expect for a few folks who decided to sleep in...Nick. The walk proved to be a long and tiring, but filled with the pleasure of enjoying an unique adventure. We passed through feilds and farms filled with a large palette of wild flowers and shrubbery that proved to be great backdrop for the walk. The towns we passed through were quanit and friendly and could have easily been on a postcard.

Our first stop was at San Martin where we stopped at our hostel in the afternoon. The hostel proved to be an incredibly comfortable oasis in the Spanish countryside with plenty of amenities to spare. After a long and much much desired day of absolute relaxation, we shared a large family style dinner with an animated group of Italian peregrinos. The night was filled with shared laughter and stories as we shared out communal camino bond over our meal.

Unfortunately we had to leave this oasis, for the road was calling. After about an hour or so of walking we came to our first stop at Hospital de Orbigo. The town was originally settled by Romans along the path from Astorga to the French country side. The major aspect of the town is the central bridge which leads you into the center of town. Orginially built by the Romans, it has since been reconstructed in the 13th Century from which the bridge gained its present gothic form, and a massive renovation in the 1950s.

This bridge is also the location of the last medieval jousting tournament to have occured, a story central to the town´s identity. In 1434, Suero de Quniones, a noble knight, decided to arrange this very tournament. The tournament was spurred on by the vow of love to an unnamed lady who had been not showing any signs of affection towards him. He had been very committed to this love, even to go as far as wearing a metal necklet every Thursday. He had made an arrangement with the King to have this tournament relieve him of his unrequited duties of love. The stipulations of the tournament was that either within 30 days or 300 spears Suero de Quninoes would be concidered the victor. By the 30 day cut off he had only broken 166 spears and fought only 68 knights, but was concidered the victor because he had survived for 30 days. An example of the benefits of a "plan B." As a good and victorious knight is want to do, he had a companion record these "noble" deeds into an account that was very popular in its day and the sourse for the story in the present day. This story truely has taken the imagination of the town of Hospital de Orbigo today, many of the bars and shops are named after this story in one way or another and a massive medieval fair/jousting tournament is held on June 5th in commemeration of the deeds of Suero de Quninones.

After Hospital de Orbigo, we set off for Astorga. While yesterday we walked as a bigger group, today we spread out and slowed the pace a little. The towns were further apart and the road curved away from the highway, and we had an extremely pleasant hike through the rolling hills of Northern Spain (despite our tiring legs and blistering feet). About 6 miles from Astorga, we came across a building in the middle of the countryside, which was home to a very interesting Spanish man named David. He stayed by the side of his barn (or what appeared to be a barn) all day offering juice and snacks to passing peregrinos. He was genuinely thrilled to talk to anyone who passed by (in his limited English) and the side of the barn was graffitied with hearts sayings such as ¨nuestra vida es la obra de nuestros pensamientos¨ (our life is the work of our thoughts). The group consesus was that this tiny stand was the Pugsley´s of the Camino, David being a Spanish Sal. It was definitely a welcome break in our day.

We arrived in Astorga by lunchtime and enjoyed a menu del dia at a local restaurant. We toured the small city, which was originally founded as a Roman city in 14 BC. The focal point of the city is the cathedral, which was constructed over several centuries, mixing aspects of many types of architecture and art. Immediately beside the cathedral is Gaudi´s Palacio Episcopal, built around the turn of the 20th Century. Finally we looked at the Roman ruins, including remains of very impressive 4th Century walls. We wrapped up the tour with a rousing game of mafia, and are now taking a much needed rest in the hostel to prepare for our early start to Rabanal in the morning. Check in tomorrow for more!

Vin & Mel